How was born No More Twist ?
We created the workshop in 2010, just graduated from the Brussels Academy of Fine Arts. It was born out of a desire to share a work space and to nourish us with our respective visions. The start did not go straight, we took the time to study the project to arrive at the creation of the brand of textile objects (with the invaluable help of several people including Susanna Campogrande from Fedustria and François Dubois from Jobin design). As textile designers, we first considered the production of fabric for use in decoration or fashion, but the idea of the object appeared gradually as we reflected and studied the market.
Is it possible to produce in Belgium?
Yes it's still possible! The textile industry, and mainly weaving was very flourishing in the 19th century in Belgium, wool in the region of Verviers, linen in the region of Kortrijk. A large number of factories were closed in the first half of the 20th century, but there are still many, from this textile tradition. In Flanders, the production of linen weaving is internationally successful. Our weaver is one of the last weaving producers in the Walloon region. He has succeeded in enhancing his specialized know-how, and it is now luxury brands such as Dior, Louis Vuitton, Kenzo, Balmain and Lancel who trust him.
Between the 1st and 4th collection what has changed for you?
We have professionalised our working method and expanded our network of retailers. As far as creation is concerned, we now have a better understanding of the possibilities of industrial production. Our technical research has continued to evolve and we deepen the tracks already present in our first collections.
Do you have a conductive line in your creative process?
It is the thread that guides our research, the way of interlacing it, the mixtures of colors that occur when the warp and weft meet. We realize the prototypes on a manual loom (computer aided); so we have a very direct relationship with the subject. It works by try / error, there is a real process in the development of textiles which are then produced industrially at our weaver near Mouscon.
Is the design labeled "Made in Belgium" important to you?
It is an ideal, yes, it is very important, but we realize that the economic system in place does not facilitate the life of companies that make the choice of local production. The price gap between our production and mass production in countries with cheap labor is difficult to compete. There is a very strong trend towards upgrading local production in the food sector; we hope that it will gradually extend to the design sector. That would be decisive for the entire economy of the country. But the turning point is not easy to take individually, it must in our opinion result from real political decisions.
Are there any creators or brands that inspire you?
Marie: I am very interested in the scene of Dutch design in which we find a lot of freshness in the textile and mainly weaving. Our neighbors have at their disposal a very stimulating place: the texlab of Tilburg, which makes available to all industrial machines. We note that many young designers have been able to prototype thanks to its tools and we feel a real revival in the use of Jacquard weaving in Mae Engelgeer, Buro Belen, Aleksandra Gaca for example ... Users (including NoMoreTwist is a part of it!) are not limited to the Dutch, and even the Bouroullec brothers have gone through it! I particularly appreciate this duo ... Their notoriety offers them the luxury of staying very faithful to their idealism which pleases to see. I love the drawings that Ronan shares a little against the current on instagram, without #!
Anne: I am not of a "fan" character to name known names;) I am a Parisian living in Brussels and I meet in these two cities a lot of artists, whether in music, cinema, painting etc. I am generally inspired by the energy that emerges from this abundant and refreshing microcosm.
Michele: for me, it is above all the vegetable world that remains an inexhaustible source of inspiration.
Projects or collaborations in view?
From September 7 to October 1, our LUMEN collection will be present in the Store.wallpaper at the MAD among other Belgian designers (CRUSO, MOOME, Valerie objects, Pierre-Emmanuel Vandeputte Design Studio, Michaël Verheyden, Muller Van Severen, Jean -François D'Or, Coralie Miessen ...) http://designseptember.be/project2016-uk-782-2.html
A fifth collection, which is in the extension of the Lumen collection is under way. The prototypes that came out in the research phase were too numerous to constitute a single collection. We decided to extend the collection in a second part because we wanted to show more.
A collaboration is in progress with an Indian textile publisher and producer. We went to Mumbai this summer to collaborate on their collection which will be presented to Heimtextile at the beginning of September. We are looking for collaborations that allow us to put our know-how at the disposal of other companies and to focus on the creation without losing us in the administrative tasks related to the sale and distribution of our creations ... are operating at a turning point in the organization of NoMoreTwist: "more creation, less logistics".
Michele takes off to devote herself to more artisanal plant dyeing projects, which will certainly be exhibited very soon in our Brussels showroom, but she will no longer devote herself to the development of Jacquard weaving collections.